Diamonds in the Ruff
Who & What to Bring to Class
DUE TO COVID-19, OUR CLASS SIZE IS LIMITED TO ONE PERSON PER DOG, PER STATE REQUIREMENTS. WE LOOK FORWARD TO PHASE 3, WHEN OUR NUMBERS CAN INCREASE AND THE FUTURE WHEN WHOLE FAMILIES CAN PARTICIPATE TOGETHER AGAIN.
Family consistency is extremely important. We encourage all interested family members to help with your dog's training. Older, well-behaved children are welcome - those who will take an active part in your dog's class training. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult. We encourage you to take turns working with your dog in class. The dog will become confused if he's trying to listen to everyone at once. Children should wait their turn quietly and not be bouncing around their dog (or ANY student's dog) while it is trying to concentrate. Dogs cannot listen and follow directions when distracted. They need space and focus to learn. Please see the page on "Kids in the Classroom" for more helpful hints!
Please, no bare feet, flip-flops, or high-heels - for comfort's sake, wear low-heeled walking shoes. Please bring a small non-slip mat for your dog to lie on. In wet or snowy weather, bring a towel for drying your dog's feet and fur. Water is available, but you may want bring an unbreakable bowl so your dog can have a drink.
Week one - Beginning Class:
First week is people training, pups stay home except for invited demo dogs that the instructor will use to demonstrate the exercises that everyone will practice at home during the week. (Please email if you think your dog would make a good demo dog.)
Bring your dog hungry and well exercised.
Your dog is going "out to dinner" on class night! You wouldn't eat your regular dinner if you knew you had restaurant reservations, and neither should your dog. We will be using food rewards in class - if he's just polished off a big meal, he'll be less enthused about working to earn rewards. Bring high value, enticing rewards to class (see below) as you will be competing for his attention in a rich and novel environment! If your dog isn't motivated to work for food, these two articles may help: Work to Earn and The Rule of Rewards.
Bring a rubber-backed rug or a mat for your dog to lie on.
You may bring a non-squeaky chew to keep him busy during lecture time. Practice teaching your dog to settle at home during the week, so he will have plenty of practice so he will be better able to contain his enthusiasm in a classroom with other dogs and people.
Click here for more information on approved equipment and training tools.
You will need a snug-fitting flat buckle collar or martingale type collar or harness, and a 4-6 foot leash: leather is best, nylon is fine. - no chain leashes, metal chain or prong collars or retractable Flexi leads, please. Absolutely no shock collars allowed on the premises. Your instructor may recommend an alternative training collar or additional equipment during your class. We will help you select the most appropriate equipment for your particular dog. A small selection of collars, leads, and other pet supplies are available onsite courtesy of Prairie Dog Pet Mercantile. (Cash or checks made out to Prairie Dog are accepted in the store; we are also able to take debit or credit cards.) For help in selecting and fitting equipment and a huge selection training rewards, visit Prairie Dog Pet Mercantile on South Regal or in Kendall Yards.
Motivators & Rewards:
Experiment at home with different types of foods to find good motivators for your dog - bring a variety and generous amount of small, soft, moist, smelly, extra wonderful food treats with you to class each week. Introduce them gradually the week before class so as not to upset his stomach with a huge amount of new foods all at once in an exciting environment.High value! Dry treats like the ones at left or dog food kibble can be fine when training at home or for easy-to-motivate dogs. However, in the distracting class environment or when competing with the sights and smells of the real world, you will find that real cubed chicken, low-fat cheese, soft-moist treats and healthy cubed meat rolls like Natural Balance or Happy Howie dog food rolls will work much better in the face of high distraction in the real world.
High value, moist and meaty treats. Choose healthy options! Reduce regular meals to accommodate the additions to your dog's diet.
Proper reward size: Small enough to swallow quickly without needing to stop and chew. For your average dog, think the size of a cubed carrot in a package of mixed vegetables. For a small dog, the size of a lentil! The higher the value, the smaller each reward can be. This eliminates satiation and weight gain. Whatever you add during training should be subtracted from his bowl at meal time.
If your dog has a sensitive stomach, allergies, isn't very food motivated, is on a special diet, or is stressed or highly distracted and needs super extra-high value rewards, check out THIS PAGE for some great suggestions to help you find great high value rewards for your individual dog.
CHOOSE HEALTHY OPTIONS!
Read the ingredients list on that packaged food. Is it full of sugar, artificial colors, and chemicals you can't pronounce? Or is it full of REAL food?
The ingredients are listed by quantity - most to least. Does it say what kind of meat? Generic "animal" could be anything dropped at a rendering plant.
The more types of rewards you have to reward your dog, the better trained your dog will be!
Food, toys, games, petting, praise and most of all, your attention! Access to what your dog wants - getting to go through a door, eat his dinner, go sniff a great scent, say hello to a dog friend or be petted by a visitor are all real life rewards that will replace the food rewards you are using in early training.
What's the BEST reward? Whatever your dog says is "best" to him! Like people, dogs vary in what is their "favorite" food, game or activity. Experiment. The best reinforcer is the one your dog is crazy about.
How to cut up training treats:
Besides making sure your dog is extra hungry and well-exercised, here's a suggestion to help ease your own frustrations of managing his excitable self in class: take turns being the one who listens to instructions while the other focuses on keeping him busy and focused. Then trade for the next exercise. Now the one who will be working the dog will know what to do when it comes time to work, rather than trying to listen to the instructor while managing the wiggle-monster on the end of your leash. It will give each of you short breaks to re-group and will give your dog a fresh face to work with every so often. No helper? Stand on his leash Bring a favorite stuffed Kong, bully stick or other non-squeaky chew to keep help him busy.
If your dog is 'beside himself' or worried in the group environment, try to seat yourself at the end of a row, away from the entrances. We have portable gates to help define personal space and we can create a solid barrier by adding blankets to reduce fear/frustration as needed to help set your dog up for success, please ask your instructor if you need additional help or suggestions!
Make-ups are available, however, with so many folks juggling busy schedules, to avoid impacting the quality of instruction for our students, make-ups will be without dogs unless specially arranged. It's really the human end of the leash that is learning the lessons anyway. This way you can practice at home and not get behind in your lessons and we won't end up diminishing the quality of the classes for others.
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