EQUIPMENT CHOICES.
The good the bad and the ugly.

Positive reinforcement training does not rely on corrections to teach. 

 

  • We will not use equipment that is designed to deliver corrections or cause discomfort.  We do not use choke, prong or shock collars to subdue or control our dogs.  You will not learn how to "pop" your leash or force your dog into position.
     

  • Collars, harnesses, leashes, and long-lines are for keeping your dog safe - they are life insurance, not corrective devices for punishment.
     

  • Your dog should wear a well-fitted flat collar with license and ID tags so if your dog gets lost, whoever finds them, can find you.

 

Suggested equipment:

 

The following are recommended for non-pullers: 


Flat web or leather collars - make sure they are fitted snugly enough that they won't slip off over the dog's head.  The wider the collar, the less discomfort on the dog's throat.  If your dog is leaning hard and chokes on his collar, choose a no-pull harness or head collar instead.
 

Limited-slip or martingale-type collars - they tighten so they won't slip off for safety, but when fitted properly, they cannot choke.  Particularly good choices for dogs with wide necks or narrow heads.

If your dog is choking or dragging you down the street:

 

Front-hooking harnesses - There are many brands and styles that make walking your dog on leash easier for you and more comfortable for your dog.  It also eliminates pressure on the throat and neck area.  The best harnesses have a ring to hook your leash at the front of the chest.  This makes it possible to direct the dog.  Even better, harnesses like the Freedom and Balance Harnesses have hooks at the back and the front so you can provide two points of contact to communicate with a double-ended lead and switch to just the back hook when your dog has learned to walk without pulling. 

Does your dog pull on leash?  Find some tips here.

Snap your leash to the front of your harness.

This will give you directional control when you need it and keeps the pressure off the trachea.  Hooking the leash to the back of a harness on a powerhouse dog increases forward momentum and can lead to aggression out of frustration.  Hooking your leash to the front of your harness allows you to direct your dog gently and reduces frustration for both you and your dog. 

Whole Dog Journal article:  "The Best Front Clip Dog Harnesses"

Our current favorites:

 

Balance Harness

Perfect Fit Harness
Freedom harness

Ruffwear Harness
 

Visit Prairie Dog Pet Mercantile and they will help fit your dog!

Check the fit!

Choose a harness that fits high above the shoulder blades to allow full extension of the shoulders and make sure it doesn't bind in the armpits. 

 

In these examples, the weight of the extra hardware, fabric and leash pulls the front of the harness down, impeding the forward reach of the front legs.

These harnesses are too tight and the chest strap is too low in the front, causing restriction of the shoulder and binding and chafing in the armpit.

Head collars - Gentle Leaders or Halti head collars make it possible for you to redirect your dog like turning a horse with a halter.  These collars make it easier for small humans with power house pullers or when working with reactive dogs, as you can guide the dog in an arc away from what they are alarmed or excited about.  No choking, as the pressure is on the bridge of the nose, not the throat.

If your dog lunges and barks when he sees other dogs:
A Gentle Leader or Halti head collar will make it easy for you to gently turn his head away from what he is straining toward, and reduce his frustration.  Over the years we have noticed an increase in leash frustration.  We are seeing a direct correlation between dogs who engage in rough-and-tumble play with unfamiliar dogs at the dog park and dogs who dogs who lose their minds barking when they see another dog. In addition to a head collar, you may find stopping going to the dog park and daycare for awhile, while you establish new habits, will make a huge difference.

Your leash should be soft and easy-to-hold, made of leather or fabric, (NO CHAIN OR FLEXI-LEASHES) 4 ft to 6 ft in length.  The width should feel comfortable in your hand and have an appropriately-sized snap for the size of your dog.  Too thin and it will cut into your hand if your dog suddenly lunges.  Too thick or too wide and it will be bulky and hard to grip.

 

A double-ended leash (with a snap at each end) can be attached to both front and back of a no-pull harness, or to a head collar and a neck or body harness for safety and added control.

 

FOR SAFETY:  Please do not bring your dog into the classroom on a retractable (flexi) leash. 

 

Why not? 

"10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash"

"Why Retractable Leashes Are Dangerous"

A hands-free waist leash can free up your hands while training.  For distance work, a long-line (15-30 ft) gives you safety in open areas.

No retractable/flexi- leashes in class, please!

Not allowed in class:

 

  • Choke chains

 

  • Prong or pinch collars
     

  • Electronic collars

 

WHY PRONG COLLARS HURT - by Eileen Anderson

 

The fall-out of corrections and discomfort. 

 

The seeming behavior "fix" is all too often accompanied by negative fall-out.  Please read this position statement by the Pet Professional Guild.  The article is regarding shock in animal training, but the same fall-out occurs with all aversive corrections.  It's a major problem when a dog makes the unintended association that the appearance of a person or another dog predicts pain or startle from a collar correction to his neck.  The result can be increase in fear/avoidance to escape, or an increase in aggression in an attempt to drive the perceived cause of the discomfort away.  It may temporarily suppress one behavior, while creating other -far worse-  behavior issues.  Teach your dog what you DO want, rather then setting out on your training venture armed to punish what you don't.

 

It's not necessary, easier, or faster to use force and punishment.  And you'll increase your bond and relationship through positive training methods.

 


This handout may be reprinted in its entirety for distribution free of charge and with full credit given:

© CAROL A. BYRNES "DIAMONDS IN THE RUFF" Training for Dogs & Their People -
ditr_training @ hotmail.com - http://www.diamondsintheruff.com

The San Francisco SPCA has taken the bold step of making a position statement on the use of prong collars. They have also created some great educational information and resources.
www.sfspca.org/prong

Force Free Trainers of the NW
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Shock-Free Coalition
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Force Free Trainers of the NW
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Shock-Free Coalition
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© 1996 - revised 2018 by Diamonds in the Ruff.
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