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Teaching Bite Inhibition
How to teach your puppy to be careful with his teeth
Does your dog bite your fingers when grabbing for a treat? Does he accidentally chomp your hand when playing with toys?
Bite inhibition is a LEARNED behavior. It is acquired via experience starting at a very young age. Some dogs are more competitive by nature, but awareness and moderation of of bite pressure is learned. Dogs who learn to inhibit the force of their bite are safer dogs.
The lessons began when nursing as his baby teeth come in and when wrestling with siblings. Through their reactions he learns to listen to others and adjust play style accordingly. Most of the time, the 'correction' for causing pain to mom or siblings was simply that the meal or the game ended. The milk train left the station. Mom simply stood up and walked away. Biting brothers and sisters made them yelp and stop playing. Communication is usually subtle - a pause, a hard look. Only in extreme situations did they respond with a snap or a growl. If escalation is necessary to make a point, it is brief, just enough, and to the point. And over as quickly as it started.
Singleton and orphaned, bottle raised puppies don't receive this crucial experience and frequently have hard mouths. They don't learn to deal with frustration or how to negotiate with their peers in a cooperative or skilled manner.


Unfortunately, well-meaning humans of all ages simply don't know how to initiate polite play with dogs. They tease and taunt with their hands and feet and encourage games that teach dogs to chase and grab and hold on tight. They think they are doing things dogs like, but are often frustrating, not fun. They offer a treat and then snatch it away to encourage the dog to want it more. And then these same humans get mad and slap dog faces and squeeze mouths shut when they are bitten by puppies who get faster and more accurate at capturing the toy or the fast-moving food in the hand. The people and the puppies don't know any better.
All of these games and forms of discipline make teaching puppies to be polite and careful with the force of their bite much more difficult. Harsh corrections for playing too rough won't teach them to be gentle either. Your puppy is not being dominant and acting like you are "alpha" is just plain bad for your relationship! More often than not, it makes dogs defensive, ruins trust and creates actual aggression.
Instead of an accidental collision of an open mouth by an excited puppy, the dog now deliberately grabs and bears down with his molars.

Culivate Calmness & Patience
Shape the behavior you want to encourage.
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Make earning the treats easy and the pattern clear and predictable.
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Avoid any actions that might cause your puppy to become excited or frustrated.
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Don't pull him back with the leash or push his body with your hands.
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Don't snatch the food or toy away or dangle it above your head out of reach.
Be calm. Be kind.
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Movements should be slow and easy. Be steady and reward generously.
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Breathe in through your nose and exhale slowly in a long sigh.
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Take a break. Stop for now. Start over.
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Make it easier to understand the boundaries you are setting.
Respond to impatience with a calm, still, response. Reward any small moment of calmness. Be as calm as you'd like him to be. If it's clear that he about to go over-threshold and just can't right now, calmly disengage. Say, "all done" and scatter a few treats for him to sniff and find. Sniffing can be calming. Put the treats away for now. Praise softly and quit while you're ahead. You're not 'letting him get away with it' by bailing before it goes terribly wrong. You are making certain that everything he practices is what you do want to see.
Teach it before you need it! You can't have a productive training session when your puppy is wound-up and starving. Practice when the puppy is calm and well-exercised. If he's a real food hound who gets over-aroused around food, plan your lessons for after a meal, with only moderately interesting treats. The ability to play the difficult "wait and take-it" games may not be possible otherwise. Plan constructive practice sessions when you have set up for success, not a reaction as a punishment for grabby, bitey behavior.
Helpful Videos on how to help your mouthy puppy:
Teaching Your Dog to Put a Stop to Play Biting - Dog Training Made Easy
Stop Puppy Biting with Handling Games - Kiko Pup
CREATE A CLEAR FEEDBACK LOOP
Create a pattern: When you are offered food or a toy, avoid putting your teeth on skin.
IF < THEN
IF you shift away from the food, THEN you will get food.
IF you shift your weight toward the food, THEN you will not get food.
Rule number one:
Leave your fingers in the way whenever you deliver treats, so he expects to always have to go around them to get to the food. We are teaching the dog how to automatically avoid putting his teeth on our skin whenever food is offered. We will show him exactly what he should do to make the food he craves available.
Food should be presented directly into the dog’s mouth without him having to reach to get it. If fingers are always in the way and the hand is steady, the dog will soon slow down and stop grabbing, as experience tells him he need only wait for the food to come to him, and lick around the fingers to extract the food from inside the hand. Next, you will show him that if he pauses when the human says "wait" it will reliably make a release cue happen which makes the food instantly available. Being gentle and patient works.
FEEDBACK:
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If teeth touch skin yelp “OUCH!!” and calmly retract the offering. Hold your closed fist against your chest. Go still for a beat. If the dog pauses, catch that tiny stillness with a "Yes!" and deliver a treat immediately to his mouth from the palm of your hand, like feeding a pony grain.
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When you can feel that the dog is trying to adjust his technique by showing any degree of self-restraint, and/or switches to using his lips and tongue, mark it with a "Yes!" and open your food hand and deliver the reward. "Good job!"
Rule number two:
Use soft treats, like tiny balls of cream cheese, cubes of meat or chopped hotdogs. Choose a texture and hardness similar to skin. If the dog is bearing down with enough force to crush a hard Milkbone and misses, he will surely pierce your finger. For particularly hard mouthed dogs, start with a lick-mat before offering the same on your fingers. Praise the dog for licking whipped cream, cream cheese or peanut butter off your fingers before you move to higher value soft treats: cheese, wieners, meat. Croon “careful!” or “eeeeeaasy!!” then hold the treat loosely and encourage the dog to fish it out with their tongue, not their teeth, to extract it from your hand.
Rule number three:
Don’t hold the food too high! Deliver the food to the dog at nose level or lower. People who are afraid of getting snagged by teeth often dangle the food tentatively, just out of reach, which encourages leaping and grabbing. Frustrated dogs will snap at a moving target. Teach children in the family to deliver the food in a closed hand and feed the dog from a stationary open palm, like feeding a pony grain.
Rule number four:
Don't tease. Don't compete. Don't threaten, don't challenge. No correction. Be calm, be gentle and be kind. Your dog will slow down and think when he learns that it's easy to gain access to the reward. Show the behavior, listen for the marker, the praise and food delivery will happen. No doubt, no frustration. Just calm, productive repetition.


LEAVE-IT IN ORDER TO GET IT
Patience pays off.
Create a pattern: if a person is holding food, WAIT away from the hand, the human will acknowledge the wait, and extend the food TO YOUR MOUTH.
IF < THEN
IF you shift away from the food, THEN you will get food.
IF you shift your weight toward the food, THEN you will not get food.
Doggy Zen - Leave it
This exercise starts with food in a closed fist, presented at nose level. The hand is still and the trainer is quiet and calm. He waits. The dog will fuss with the hand, trying to extract the food. Each time the dog pauses, looks away from the hand, or gives up trying, he marks that instant with "Yes!" and delivers a piece of food. If the dog offers even a tiny glance of eye contact at any time, be sure to mark it with a "Yes!" and deliver a treat. When the dog is reliably staying away from your closed hand to get you to say "Yes" and reward, you can begin to calmly open your hand to reveal the food while he waits as shown in this video.
The dog will likely reach for the food. Quickly close the hand so he can't get to it. When he backs away, mark it with a "yes!" and deliver a piece of food. Pretty soon, you will open the hand, and the dog will pause and probably even look at you, without grabbing for the food. "YES!" He will discover that the way to get the food, is to leave the food. When he is reliably waiting as you present the food and making eye contact instead of staring at the food, say, "leave it" right before you present the open handful of food. "Leave it" now means "look at me not that."
A walk around the neighborhood isn't "exercise" - he needs to stretch his legs and run!