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Question of the week #14 - 10-2001

Of Hugs & Respect

Teri:
My own dogs love hugs and cuddles from me but I doubt that they would tolerate them from strangers or folks outside the family. I think dogs are much like people in that respect. I certainly would not want some one I did not know to wrap their arms around me......I would feel threatened and I think that dogs do as well. By the same token.....I love a hug from people I know and care about.

Dana:
My feelings on hugs is that the dogs, if hugged from puppy-hood, they understand and welcome the hugs from their human family. If not raised with hugs, they may not understand them as a sign of affection. Some dogs enjoy hugs more than others, as do people. And some dogs give hugs better than others, as do people. I think it's back to nature vs nurture and I wouldn't think about giving a big ol' hug to a wolf, but Eddie and Basil and Topper and Spinner and Zephyr and even Sol seems to like them...

Diane:
Dogs learn about human affection and come to respond in their individual ways. Some may not like it as much as others, and some adore hugs and kisses, returning them with gentle licks and leaning on their humans in their version of affection. Affection is relational, and may not be well received by a dog that doesn't know you, but you may gain that relationship with the dog over time. It would be unwise and impolite to force affection on a dog that isn't comfortable with it from you, just as inappropriate as one dog getting in another's face in the "he just wants to say Hi" scenario. Some dogs are affecionate with each other, touching, licking, grooming and just liking to be close together. Sherman and Kelly like to touch and be close together, especially when we are traveling. All our dogs give gentle kisses when they are being "loved up on" by the humans. Does Turid say they don't like it? Or was it that she was talking about an arm over the dog when the dog wasn't sure of the situation and meaning, and would offer a calming signal instead? Can't remember exactly what her focus was on that.

My response:
I agree that it isn't a behavior that an unsocialized dog would welcome. Turid talks about the "closeness being dangerous" and that "dogs don't like that" ... her video shows dogs looking away and lip licking - the Golden yawning as the owner stops reaching over its back - I think she interprets it much like the Golden in the video responds to the stand-over of the Shepherd. I've had dogs pour themselves into a hug, others tolerate it, while others show visible calming signals. Our Doberman Sonny would like to have gotten into your skin. Basil loves hugs from the front with his forehead on my chest - but look at him here:

"MOTHER, I'M HATING THIS!" The camera looming, the sappy smile and insincere hugging at the bidding of the photographer - he is visibly uncomfortable. There was no doubt a lot of lip licking and a yawn or two after this shot. Turid would say, "see, I told ya so."

 

Question of the week #15 - 10-2001

The barking Boxer and Destructive Rott x

From Cathy-
Okay. What is done is done. Now let's fix the problem. An 8 month old Rottie/Lab puppy is no picnic, I'm sure. The first 2 things on the list to do for this dog are #1 - This dog needs regular exercise, and alot of it. Take him for walks. Throw the ball for him to fetch a few hundred times a day. Take him swimming and hiking. That also leads into the #2 thing on the list - Spend time with him. It sounds like this boy gets exiled to the back yard alot, first by himself, and now with the new Boxer, and he isn't very good about using his time wisely, hence, the barking and roughhousing, because that is what he has always done. If you are going to have a dog, or dogs, by all means make them a part of the family. You can't just throw a bunch of toys at him and expect him to make good use of his time. I don't think I would leave these 2 dogs alone together until Barking Boy learns who is in charge of this family and some badly needed manners. This is for the safety of both dogs, as things can escalate from play wrestling to an all out dirty ugly fight pretty easily, especially, since he doesn't read the Boxer's 'Leave me alone' body language.

The barking and fighting would probably subside if he got more exercise and his owner spent time training with him. It never hurts to use a little NILIF. This really helps establish who is in charge. Reward the good stuff -- good behavior, quiet time. Ignore the bad -- barking, rudeness.

I fear these people have bitten off more than they can chew by having the 2nd dog. I hope all goes well for them. (Carol, am I way off base here? I didn't go into more barking stuff as I think in this case it is frustrated energy)

Lisa:
Red Flags...First, there is no mention of the dogs in the house. Second, the 8 mos old destroying everything in site all the time including all of *his* toys laying around -- Has there been any attempt to show him proper behavior or has he been expected to figure it out on his own while his owners leave him in the backyard ALONE? Third, toys laying around -- "Destructive" behavior is due to boredom and lack of direction. The toys are probably just part of his frustrating, boring, directionless enviornment. Destroying stuff is his entertainment. Fourth, barking and nipping at the new dog -- sounds bossy. "This is my yard, these are my toys, I want you to play with me now" This dogs sounds very frustrated and at 8 mos is testing his wings a bit. He needs lots of in-class work. He needs a job to do. He needs direction at home through a gentle NILIF program. If they don't rein him in, he could be a big problem as he gets older. These people need to understand that if they leave it up to the dog to make up the rules, he will do just that. It sound like they may have gotten the second dog to keep him company. Bad idea to add an additional dog, when the first one is out of control.

Teri:
I think destructive dogs are bored dogs. Sounds like the dog spent too much time in the backyard with his toys. WOW!! What fun is that. This dog needed to be going to school and learning to socialize. He needed to be indoors with his family, learning manners and tricks and how to be a good doggie friend. Now the problem is just doubled. 2 bored dogs with no manners or direction towards appropriate behavior. If the dogs are playing too loud and rough together then why leave them together and why not put a stop to it and bring them inside. I think these guys need some good exercise sometimes.......ball chasing games, hikes, etc. These dogs need to learn some manners, appropriate behavior and boundaries. They need owners who are good leaders. They need to interact more with the owners and less with the "toys". .

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Question of the week #1 - 12-2000:

How do you respond to these common student comments:
"He only does it when I have food!"
"He only responds when there's something in it for him."

OK, time's up ... Good work Cathy, Lisa and Teri!

Cathy's answer: Uh oh. It looks like this owner has turned the lure / reward method into bribery. I think the first thing to do is to take a step (or 2) back. When giving a command like 'sit', if the dog doesn't do it on the first command, then the thing to do is to help him succeed. Gently place him into the proper position, using a gentle touch and a light, happy voice, saying something like, "Here is what I want. Good sit. Let's try again." No treat this time. Then go ahead and try again. You may have to even go all the way back to the 'lure' and slowly phase that out. Also, when phasing the lure out, I would be unpredictable and not give the treat after the same command or # of commands, like: sit, down, treat, stand, sit, down, sit, stand, treat and then move on to something else. I have more success when the dog doesn't know exactly what is coming next.

Lisa's answer: Yes, that is correct. So, we have to let him know that there will ALWAYS be something in it for him. Depending on the dog, you can graduate off of food-at-every-interval to either food intermittantly (only works with a dog who is highly food motivated) with jackpots for the times he ignores something he REALLY wanted to do. Or wean off of food to a toy jackpot. Or an activity Jackpot. Or, as in the case of a sit, nothing happens when the dog is a wriggling idiot. All of life happens when he sits. The point is that dogs do what works for them. The trick is to find out what works for a particular dog. Gradually, over time, the dog will develop a habit of doing the thing you want him to do and it will become easier to get him to do it--if the rewards are consistent--if there is always the promise of a reward not necessarily every time, but often enuff. What is enuff? IT DEPENDS ON THE DOG. The advantage of beginning training with food, is that it teaches both handler and dog to depend on reward-based motivation. Sets the right frame of mind. Carol, this question would be answered differently, depending on the personalities and temperaments of both dog and handler. Is this correct?

Teri's answer: I don't treat every time I ask the dog to do something. Once they have a pretty clear idea of what it is you are expecting them to do then I will use praise, pets, good boy or girl and hold onto the treat. They may have to do a few things in a row before the treat appears. I keep them guessing and wondering if they will get one and it seems to make them try harder. I also will end a session by bringing out their favorite toy if they have tried very hard for me. I will also jack pot for something done extremely well or fast so that they know if I am really pleased with a performance. This may really sound kind of silly but with my Entlebuchers, I talk to them in a converstional manner. For instance, "sit" (no treat) "my but that was a nice sit....I wonder if you can also do a "down" MY MY but that was a REALLY good dog what about a "stand". Then a jack pot. I have found that they listen hard to me when I do this as if listening for the words that they know. I use a gentle voice and then accentuate the command itself a bit and may even add a hand signal if they miss it....I want them to succeed. They seem to like the game.

Excellent answers! Good job, guys!

"He'll only does it when I have food/when there's something in it for him"

Of course. All animals, including people, do things to gain something (food or?) or avoid something (correction or unpleasant circumstance). A human might even work for something as intangible as "self-satisfaction" or "a feeling of accomplishment"- but you still wouldn't work unless there was something in it for you or "because you had to" (to avoid an unpleasant consequence.).

People who correction train forget that even when the dog's training seems complete, the dog is still working "to avoid a negative consequence" and while the leash may be off, the dog still believes that a correction could happen. The positively trained dog still believes that a reward could happen, even though there is no food visible on the handler. The correction based handler really never leaves the house without his leash-pop. That's what set-ups and proofing are all about. Why else does the dog feel stress when he makes a mistake?

As all three of our brilliant Ruffians pointed out, it is the pop machine delivery (a treat every time for every behavior) that causes the dog to cease to work if no food appears in the offing. If we put our .75 in the pop machine and no pop comes out, do we keep feeding the machine money? Of course not. Why then, do we continue to plug money into the Vegas slots? We know for a fact that the likelihood that we are throwing our money away is high, and yet we are compelled to keep putting that money in that slot. Why? It's unpredictable. It's the big pay-off and the emotional "YEAH!" that is worth working so hard for. It might just be worth it. (And they put all those bells and songs and flashing lights on those machines for a reason!)

Here are some other probable reasons:

You get what you teach!

Is the dog really "refusing" to follow the command because you don't have food? Probably not. Dogs learn in pictures. He's doing exactly what you've taught him. It's more likely that he's learned by a long reinforcement history that when you have food in your hand, if he puts his butt or elbows on the ground, that you will give it to him. You've also shown him that when you put the food away, the training session is over.

Perhaps he's learned that a piece of food held under your chin is the signal to sit. Is this the dog's second year of training or second week? How many training sessions has the dog really had? You get what you reward, the dog learns what you teach him.

"Bribery" is a natural stage of lure/reward training. Sometimes just telling a student THAT and then explaining how to move the the next step is all they need to hear. Their question suggests that maybe those books they've read are right... "the dog isn't doing it for me, he's doing it for the food." It's our job to take our students to the next step. How?

A. Use MANY things as rewards, not just food: real-life rewards, toys, games: and always pair praise and touch so the praise and touch predicts the "good stuff" and becomes something the dog enjoys and is, in and of itself, a potent reinforcer. Jackpot with bigger, better stuff for better work.

B. The reward should be unpredictable. It could be anything and come from anywhere. The student must be encouraged to work beyond the lure phase and into the reward stage quickly. Spending weeks or months luring only cements in the dog's learning history that this is how the game works: follow the food, see the food, work for the food, no food - no work.

C. Help students realize that dogs learn visual cues long before verbal. Changing the picture changes the cue. The dog probably doesn't understand the verbal cue. The signal he's learned is "food under chin means put your butt on the floor!" You put the food down and the cue is gone.

D. Is he trained to that level of distraction? "When there's something in it for them" is usually a complaint made in response to times when the dog seemingly ignored the handler and "chose" an outside reinforcer (squirrel/cat/dog/running child, a chance to escape). The level of distraction was simply higher than the dog's current level of ability. Again this is not a "refusal" but a situation where the dog simply hasn't reached that level of training yet. The dog isn't "refusing" - he just was so engrossed in the world around him that he didn't even hear the command.

E. How is this particular dog and handler's relationship? Are they ineffective? Repeating themselves over and over? Is the dog running the show? Perhaps this is a leadership issue as much as a training/food issue. (Yes, Lisa, that is correct.)

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Question of the Week #2 - 12-2000:
FOOD REFUSAL
The dog isn't interested in food in class. The owner is trying to feed it but the dog is actually turning away from the food and shutting out the owner. "But he loves this stuff at home!" What do you suggest they do?

Lisa's answer: The instructor/assistant who is faced with this question will have to size up the dog. There are two possible scenerios. 1.) adrenalin suppresses appetite. IOW is the dogs stressed, fearful, too excited? 2.) the dog may get too much food at home and now that there are more interesting things to do/smell/see the food that the dog is normally interested in at home is BORING. Food in class needs to be "to die for" from the dog's perspective. Cooked liver, Teriaki Chicken, etc.

Kim's answer: I would believe it. But at home everything is familar, sounds, sights, smells, people. Maybe the distractions of class (new smells, other dogs, other humans, learning new things) are more overwhelming than the food is interesting. Find a food that the dog will "take your hand off" for at home and save that treat for class. Also bring a wide variety to class to keep it interesting. Remember in class to be as relaxed as possible yourself. Take a deep cleansing breath and have fun. Remember to smile at the dog to help him to relax too.

Cathy's answer: If the dog isn't interested in food in class, there are several things to try. I have a teeny bit of personal experience in this, as my samoyed, Aggie, pulls this on me occasionally:

1. Make sure the dog is hungry for class, but not famished.
2. Bring out the really good stuff that comes out only when you're in class, like garlic chicken or beef, liver, whatever is his "to-die-for" treat. Have 2 or 3 things he absolutely adores for class.
3. Try something besides food, like a toy that he loves.
4. Quiet your voice and sound happy to get the dogs' attention.
5. The dog is probably feeling frustrated also, and senses your frustration as well. Do some really elementary stuff, like sits and downs, or a trick the dog knows may lighten up the mood.
6. Go thru the motions anyway. That may sound a little goofy, but when Aggie pulls that stuff on me, alot of times just going thru the motions and doing the best that we can will settle her back down so she can think.

Teri's answer: I would first find out if the dog was just fed before coming to class and then check out the kinds of treats being offered and whether they are being used correctly ie close to the dogs nose. In either case an increase in the level of the treat might help. Good idea for trainers to maybe keep chicken, burger or some particularily yummy treat on hand to share. If still not interested in food then maybe a squeaky toy might help. Suggest an increase in the level of excitement and praise in the voice if the dog makes an attempt to do what is asked and when giving the command of say sit..make sure it is not given as a question or repeated over and over but more of a "I want you to sit now" tone of voice.(not gruff or harsh just firm) I have often seen a dog begin to listen when the tone of voice is changed. The owner needs to get the dog's attention focused on them and not on the activity in the room. Maybe moving to a quieter spot in the room will help or to a corner of the yard if outside.

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Excellent!
The best thing about all of the answers given is the way our Ruffians looked at all sides and the many possibilities, taking into consideration the handler and dog's personalities and temperaments. There were no pat answers.

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The dog who won't eat:
Relationship, stress, hunger factor, distraction, owner stress, breathing rate, as well as dog stress and previously learned association ... FABULOUS! All of you used your best observation skills; taking into account all the pieces of the puzzle and not just the immediate symptom.

A real biggie in this situation... body posture: owner looming and feelings of frustration. Why? Maybe his feelings of helplessness at the dog shutting down or being distracted and not knowing what to do because the dog is suddenly not interested in food that he's been "to die for" at home. Maybe it's the dog reacting to the owner's discomfort at being "on stage" and worrying about failing in front of the other students. The dog might be responding to the owner's pressure on him to perform as well in class as he does at home. All could prompt a calming signal (look away/turn away) response in the dog. Watch for blinking and nose licking and yawning. Are his ears back or focused elsewhere?

Other common handler responses: 1. "chasing the dog's mouth around with the food" trying to push it in like a coin into a slot, actually causing a food aversion. 2. Not getting the dog's attention first - dog is so focused on something else that the hand and the food are getting in his line of sight. 3. Is there a REAL LIFE reward there that the dog wants more? If he isn't interested in the food, be ready to use the real life reward instead, but it's a premack deal (eat your peas and you get dessert) "Give me your attention and you get to go there!" Encourage the handler to wait for that glance and THEN give the dog permission to go.

Bonus question: The handler calls the dog's name and the dog actively turns away at the sound of his name ... (man I wish I didn't see this so often!)

Lisa: A look away is a calming signal. What is going on between handler and owner? A look away in that instance is also disrespect. I've seen it in Sibes with major Tude. In this case, a good solid NILIF program should do the trick.

Kim: Bonus question: Okay, you got me thinking on this one. My mind is going in a dozen different directions. The dog is running away "actively". What do you mean? What is the dogs attitude? Is it more of a "Phew! I dont think so! I want to go over here. See ya!" flipant attitude or is it more of a "Oh, no. She is calling my name again! Fell for it once, but not again." intimidated/fear attitude? Or is name overused to the point that the dog is ignoring it. Like the sit-sit-sit-sit-sit-sit routine. The dog will finally respond when he gets tired enough of hearing the word. For the flipant attitude I would want to probably work on pack stucture issues. For the intimidated/fear issue, what is the cause. My old dog, Bear, would go in the opposite direction when I said Come because when she was a tiny puppy and had some severe eye problems and needed meds, stupid me would say "Bear come here" then put meds in her eyes. After a couple times she would hear "Come" and think "No way! Aint gonna do it! Come=eye meds." Work on long line recalls. Keep the name a positive thing. If the name is a negative name, change it to keep it positive. Is this a re-homed dog? The name that is being used, is it the name he came with? Change it! New life = new name. (except in Elmo's case. A goofy dog needs to keep his goofy name) If the name is over used, stop saying his name for everything! Give his name some meaning.

Cathy: With regard to the dog actively turning away when the owner calls his name you need take some steps to get the dog's attention on you. Again, you might try some "to-die-for" treats, or a squeeky toy. I have never been in a class where it was a problem with the instructor to work on something different with your dog in the corner when the rest of the class was doing something else and this may be an option also---like doing some long line recalls when everybody else is doing 'sit for petting'. Is this a problem all the time or just in class? That is really an important question as if the behavior is just in class, it should be simple enough to remedy by getting the dog's attention back on you by some of the suggestions above and having the dog settle. He may just be acting bratty. If it is a problem all the time, then you'll want to go back and change some behavior on your own part towards the dog. Change the perception the dog has when he hears his name. Is it a good thing for him when he gets called? Do you sound happy and friendly when you call your dog or do you have an angry voice? Can he hear okay? Just some things to consider. Another thing to consider if the dog is ignoring you when you say his name is "Who is really in charge here?" If you are not the leader, the dog will be. It is time to take control and be a leader that your dog wants to follow and can feel safe with.

Teri: Hmmmm! a dog that turns away when it's name is called. Does the use of his name mean not so nice things happen when he hears it? Or is it just the name being used over and over without telling the dog what you want....I'd tune someone out real fast too if that were the case. At any rate, name should be used with a command and good things should happen when the dog responds. He should be made to feel like the best dog on earth.

 

Bonus Q:
The important thing that our Ruffians picked up right away was that this isn't just "oblivion because of distraction/excitability" but active avoidance to the owner saying the dog's name.

YES! When a dog shows avoidance behavior to its own name, there is often something going wrong in the relationship. Frequently though, it's simply a learned response to nagging; the name being used as a correction or warning or said over and over until it means nothing at all. Example: The dog is doing something the owner doesn't like, the owner responds by saying its name in a harsh tone, so the dog moves away from the owner/thing it was doing and the owner ceases the name calling and praises the dog. The dog's name means "stop that" not "look at me." I also see it in homes with young or multiple children who chant the dog's name or compete for the dog's attention. The dog is simply tuning out the voices to escape the serenade.

I've even seen dogs who see their name as a cue: the owner says the dog's name and the dog looks around expectantly like "where? what? is there a squirrel?"

Very often, the avoidance is in response to (or made worse by) the tone of voice and body posture. The owner is leaning forward and looming while saying the dog's name and applying LEASH TENSION. "Tippy! *puuuuuull* Tipppyyyy *puuulll* TIPPY! *drag*" The leash itself causes opposition reflex and avoidance. These owners frequently pull UP so the dog's focus is drawn downward to the floor where he'd like his front feet to be.

SO, as an assistant/instructor, your job is to give direction to the owner: "loosen the leash, use a lighter tone, maybe a kissy noise and back away, bring the food up to your chin and smile" and maybe suggest or supply other forms of reinforcement. Go grab some cheese or a squeeky toy, ask the owner "what does he REALLY want more than anything right now? THAT is your reward!" Help them succeed.

I especially liked how Cathy & Kim referred to their own experiences. Sometimes the best thing you can say to a student is "Oh, I had a dog who did this, too" or "lots of dogs do this, don't worry, here's what to do." Sometimes students feel like their dogs are the only dogs in the world to act this way. Sometimes an "it could be worse, you shoulda seen ... " story will make them laugh and lighten up and bring the dog around, too.

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Question of the week #3 - 1/2001
How do you teach attention/positive response to the dog who doesn't know his owner is on the end of the leash?

Thank you, Cathy Fox!
Cathy's answer: If a dog pays no attention to you (on the other end of the leash), is to make yourself more fun and exciting than whatever else is going on. I would use lots of happy talking to the dog, leg pats, and of course, the old stop and go no further when the dog is pulling. You might even want to go the opposite way when he goes out to the end of the leash. To build eye contact and attention I would use the clicker and do alot of "watch me" games, gradually making the game more about attention while walking. To re-direct attention from distractions, again I would use a very light happy voice and clicker in hand, try to get his attention with the "watch me" command. If that doesn't work you could try a quick backwards run (the dog is still on the leash). I have, on an occasion or 2, had to take my dogs head in my hands and hold his face right in front of mine until he looked at me. It was at that moment, he suddenly realized how insurmountably beautiful I am and he smiled at me. I then gave him a click and a treat -- for his attention.

Games to play to teach Attention / Eye contact:

"Look at me for dinner" - hold dog's bowl off to one side and when the dog makes eye contact/click/feed - make it harder, hold bowl out, up down, ask the dog to hold eye contact while you move the bowl over his head/lower it to the floor/put food bowl behind the dog, etc.
"Capture eye contact game" eye contact/click/drop food - look back/click/drop food -look back again/click/drop food - hold eye contact/click/drop food
"Find my face" (from heel position or front) spin away and c/t the dog for refinding position/eye contact.
"Look away/ditch and run" approach a distraction, dog looks, you leave FAST! Reward dog for catching you.
"Sniff on cue" - (no cue=no sniff!) - use sniffing AS the reward: place food on floor/eye contact/click/"find it!"
"Dawn Jec's attention exercise" follow food with distractor w/plastic bag - click for looking back/drop beans,packing peanuts, raise criteria: eventually squeaky toys/real food.
Spit food - the dog will zero in on your face if that's where the food comes from! (of course you'll have to use something you don't mind putting in your mouth and some of us really have to hone our spitting skills!
Teaching loose leash/attention: Place a piece of food on the floor several feet away or position a person the dog wants to meet: dog pulls/owner stops, dog looks back, click send him for the food/pet. Next round raise criteria-two steps on loose leash for click, etc. When the dog can walk ALL the way on a loose leash w/eye contact, increase the level of distraction - person bouncing ball, squatting, clapping hands. Decrease # of steps required to earn the c/t at each increase in the level of distraction. Make it harder, but set the dog up to succeed.

Attention Game - from Chris Bach

The purpose of the game is to get the dog to CHOOSE to make COMMITTED eye contact with you. There are several key aspects to your part in the game. You are never to use your eyes to "force" the dog to look at you in any way or to keep him in place. You should always smile, keep your eyes "soft" (you are gazing into his eyes with love), keep your body relaxed (lean back slightly if need be... no social pressure on the dog). The dog is always free to look away, but is only rewarded for looking at you.

There are two "positions" that signal to the dog that it now has the opportunity to be reinforced. These positions are the "heel" and "front" positions (for the obedience people), AKA sitting at your left side or sitting facing you. You may step into position rather than try to move the dog.

The first step is to have treats in both hands. You and dog are in a boring room in the house. Let dog know you have food, but don't allow him to have it. If dog knows sit, ask for a sit. Stand in front of dog, smile, extend your hands out to either side of your body. Dog will likely look at hands (food). The instant the dog looks away from the food, say "yes" (or any other verbal reward mark, "click") and give the dog a treat from the other hand. Initially you are rewarding the dog for looking away from the food (that "Doggie Zen" thing). Keep trying to reward the instances when the dog come closer to making eye contact with you. When the dog is looking at you and not the food, then move on to the next level.

The next level is commitment. You want the dog to do more than glance at you. You want the dog to consciously make a choice to look at you rather than at the food. That means he will hold your gaze longer, but also that he is totally focused on you. Signs of commitment from the dog include ears faced forward (no twitching or twirling), forward body posture, eyes bright, slightly holding their breath (a panting dog will stop panting and close its mouth to fully concentrate). That's what you are looking for. When you are getting that then you can gradually lower your hands to your sides. The game gets harder when the dog can maybe watch your eyes and the food. Only reward committed eye contact. Then put the food somewhere else. You go get a treat to reward that focused attention.

By now the dog should be trying to get in front of you and looking at you. That's the secret to getting what it wants. You are not using a word cue for this attention. Your position relative to the dog is the cue. Now ask for attention (step into position) for "real life rewards" like going outside or meals. Wait for eye contact before letting the dog out of its crate. Stuff like that.

Then start adding distractions. Go back to accepting glances at first because you have now made the game harder. Another important point is that when you add distractions you need to accept that the dog will "startle" at things (something dropped across the room, a passer-by). What that means is that the dog may be looking at you, but a sound or motion will draw its attention away briefly. That's OK. But it should, at this point, CHOOSE to look back at you (Chris calls it the "never mind" reaction). Reward that choice. If, for some reason, the dog chooses to attend to the distraction instead, then you need to "interfere with the reinforcement potential" of the distraction... step between the dog and the distraction, walk the dog away, something.

This "game" works. I can remember playing it with Astro. She was traditionally trained and would rarely look at me. In a matter of days, she was happily holding eye contact with me to get what she wanted. My almost 15 week old puppy is making eye contact to come out of her crate. She is "waiting" to be released to her food bowl and looking up at me. She's "hooked" on this game already. Which means attention will never be a problem.

Question of the week #5 - 2-9-2001
Psycho Puppy
I have a 6 month old German Shepard/Akita mix puppy who is extremely wild, he has torn up our house and very rarely listens to commands {he does some tricks; sit, shake, roll- over with treats} he absolutely freaks out when people come over, if we put him out side he jumps the fence to try to get at them, if we go outside without him to move a car or get the mail he trashes the blinds in all the windows....if he knows he has done something wrong and we are trying to talk with him about that he runs from us....again trashing the house, he has knocked over end tables with lamps on the them...bottom line he is EXTREMELY WILD and VERY UNCONTROLLABLE! He has been fixed. So I guess my question would be, what is it your classes can offer me and my pup in such a short period of time or at this age where he already feels he can do what he wants? Please help!!!!! (actual email Q-came today)

Carol's response- [wow ... and they've survived 6 months of this?- where were they 3 months ago?]
This dog is going up over and through furniture and knocking lamps off tables ... he has no self-control. He's positively overstimulated and on input overload when guests come. When they "try to talk to him" about things he's "done wrong" are they scaring the sh# out of him? Is he hyper-active and hyper-sensitive? Has there been abuse out of sheer frustration?

Sounds like this is as much a leadership problem as a hyper-activity problem. Training will of course help, but there are some management and leadership issues that we can also implement to keep him from practicing this annoying and destructive behavior. Before starting any behavior modification, what brand/kind of food are they feeding? Let's start there. Too high a protein (take him off puppy food if he's on it), artificial colors, sugar, allergies to wheat or corn, preservatives, no BHT, BHA could all add to hyperactive behavior.

Short term: Management
Step one: Get an airline kennel for times when he's unsupervised or you have to leave him (yes, he's going to scream his brains out in there til he gets used to it but at least he won't be trashing the house.)
Step two: leave a trailing leash on him 100% of the time he is free in the house so you can pick it up and stop the rampage before he gains any momentum. Tie him to something if you need to when guests come or as a time out when he can't control himself.
Step 3: tie him to your waist if necessary. Wherever you go, he goes and never at a dead run.

Long term: Train the owners AND the dog
I agree with the rest of you that this isn't going to be fixed in one class session. The owners are going to take longer to train than the dog - they've been creating this monster for 6 months now. It's relationship issue - and they are blaming the dog for all the behavior they are seeing. I would also suggest our Attitude Class - they need to start a leadership program on this kid pronto. Followed by the Headstart class and as many other classes as we can talk them into.

[SIDE NOTE: After suggesting the Attitude class, offering in-homes and the Headstart class, as well as management suggestions, etc, they have NOT replied to the email or signed up for classes ... My guess- it was too much commitment and if we see him, it will be if/when he gets adopted from a shelter.]

Teri's response: This puppy needs to come to class desperately and not for a short time either. =) The family needs help in basic training for a fact so they can take control of these situations. The pup should be crated or attached to somebody so that he can't "trash" the house and taught the basic commands sit-down-stay-come-leave it and so on. And he needs socialization and lots of it.

Lisa's response: My reply to the people with the psycho dog...There are things we do in our interactions with our dogs that can trigger some of this behavior. We actually set up an environment that encourages or causes destructive behavior. We don't realize we are doing it because we think that our dogs see the world the same as we do. We think they feel and think and respond the same as humans, when in fact they are a different species and don't "speak the same language" In class you will learn how to read your dog, how to communicate with him in a way that he understands, how to channel his energy in ways that are consistent with the rules in your house. So, in addition to traditional obedience commands (sit, down, stay, come) you will have the tools you need to live harmoneously with your dog for the rest of its life.

Cathy's response: Considering the myriad of opportunity facing me in my own pack structure, I don't feel qualified to give this person point by point advice on how to deal with this dogs behavior--I do, however, feel qualified enough to speak in generalities, so here goes. The first thing I would do is make sure they understand that training this dog is going to be a life-long process, not an event that just happens. They are not going to wake up after 4 weeks of training and suddenly the dog is well behaved. I say that because of the comment made about "what can we do in such a short time". This dog is going to need WAY more than a 4 week HS class. This person has to realize also, that ditr isn't going to train their dog for them. It doesn't work that way. They have to do the work. Having made that clear and they still want to go on, I would start at the beginning--sits, downs, stands. At home I would crate the dog when they cannot supervise, not as a punishment, but just the way it is from now on until the dog begins to learn manners and the owners build trust on that. And go from there with classes. I also have a newfound respect for NILIF and I would definitely use that on this dog. He doesn't sound like a bad dog, just never having been given any direction, training, or rules to follow, he has made up his own.

Diane's response: "...if he knows he has done something wrong and we are trying to talk with him about that he runs from us...he already feels he can do what he wants" Okay, my first question is, who is in charge in this house? I can just picture it, "Now honey, mommy and daddy do not like it when you trash the mini blinds. That is not a very nice dog....." and the dog responding "Yeah, whatever lady. No time to talk, got too many couch cushions to shred. See ya!" When the dog goes wild when people come over and tries to get at them, does he just want to be with them or have them for a mid afternoon snack? I think first of all I would like to see this dog with my own eyes. I would also want to possibly explore 1) pack structure issuses, 2) separation anxiety and 3) "hormone crazies". (Not nec. in that order) 1) "At this age where he already feels he can do what he wants" well, yeah, when mom and dad have basically said he could. What 15 or 16 year old kid would not run the house if given the chance? Like children, without clear boundries and leadership dogs will run wild. 2) The times I have heard a dog "trashing the mini blinds" has been primarily an anxiety dog. If it is seperation anxiety, maybe some mild drug therapy while training. Clear his mind so he can learn some coping skills to survive when he is taken off of the drugs. 3) Also, has this little one been neutered? If not do it NOW! As far as what our classes can offer in such a short amount of time, a ton! First of all, training is not just once a week for an hour or an hour and a half. It is every day, several times a day. It is the owners making a commitment. It is a fine work of hand crafted art and not a Poliroid snapshot. It takes time.

Sounds like this dog might benefit from an inhome before they come to class just because they need so much help. It might also help sort out how much of this is separation anxiety, and how much is just wildness in addition to the neuroticness that would come with a mix of these breeds. Good thing he's neutered, although it's probable that it hasn't been long enough yet to see the results. They need pack leadership, NILIF, basic manners, a Gentle Leader, and lots of work. Maybe sedatives. Why have they let him do this for so long? At least they are seeking help now, although he's typical of what you see in the shelters at this age. Where do they leave him when gone? Sounds like free. Smelly tshirts, buster cube or treat bags, working on "I'll be back" and come back at slowly increasing time intervals. Lots of on leash sit for petting just at home, and then introduce a visitor. Banning him outdoors for company obviously frustrates him more, although with some visitors,it's the only safe thing till they get a handle on it. They need to commit to multiple classes, although sometimes they turn around sooner than expected, I think this sounds like a long term class commitment. Hope they are willing to put the time in.

 

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Question of the week #6 - 2-2001:
What is an "Environmental Cue" and how would you use it?:

Teri's answer: A cue taken from the environment and recognized by the dog as a cue to perform a certain behavior. Now, how would you use that in day to day living with your dog? How would you suggest a student use it? An environmental cue is something in the dogs surroundings which will trigger a certain response or behavior. What comes immediately to mind is the ringing of a doorbell which 9.9 times out of 10 (I've never met the .1 dog) will result in a dog barking. "Heh! Mom, somebody's here!!" The great thing is that it can help one to train a dog to not bark. Door bell rings, dog's barking away, owner does something which will cause the dog to focus on them and quit barking, even for just a moment and will use that opportunity to praise and reward dog for being quiet. So it is possible to use things in the environment which could result in an unwelcome behavior and turn it into a desirable behavior by encouraging the dog to react to the environmental cue and then provide some reason that you are so much better then the unwanted behavior by providing a "to die for" food or toy or game, etc. Another environmental cue might be a curb. You teach the dog to stop, sit and wait at a curb or the edge of your property. So whenever they see that change of terrain (the cue) they should stop and wait for your release or not cross over whether you are right with them or not. My first dobe would never cross the boundaries of my property. Even when I would go off on horseback she would stop at the boundary and wait for my return. I never had to say a word and in fact could not even encourage her to follow. My last Dobe Willow, I took with me to a friends thinking she would enjoy a trail ride with us. She started off with us and the other dogs and then disappeared. On our return, there she was sitting on the hood of my car. Not the best place for her but she felt her job was to guard my property. I think she hopped up so she could watch us longer. Don't you just LOVE dogs. = ) Oops...think I got side-tracked. Hope I'm on the right track. :-)

Kim's answer: Uhhhh..environmental cue? Okay, I admit, I can't think. Look forward to everyone else's response. The only thing I can think of is a sidewalk curb. Teach it as a boundary so the dog does not bolt into the street. Is that what you mean by environmental cue? "Door ways"- doors (obviously), narrow hallways, car doors, piles of laundry on the floor. "Alpha dog" first then the others thru the "doorway".

Lisa's answer: You are stumping me. I don't know what an environmental que is...maybe. Is it like if a dog has a postman issue and he hears a dog way down the street bark because it is mailman time and so it alerts the dog that the mailman is coming?

Good job, guys! (Those of you who aren't answering for fear of giving the wrong answer - quit it! Come on - Jump in!!)

A quick note - THIS is a handout in the first week packets!!

An environmental cue is different from a verbal cue or hand signal, in that normal everyday events in the dog's life become cues for an appropriate behavior.

Examples:

.......Environmental cue:............................action:..............................reward:
• You hold your dog's food dish............. - your dog sits - .............. you put the dish on the floor
• You pick up your dog's leash.............. - your dog sits - .............. you put the leash on/go for a walk
• You walk in the door ............... - your dog runs to its place - .......you notice the dog
• You touch a door knob .......................- your dog sits - ...............you open the door
• You reach over the dog's head............ - your dog sits -................ the dog gets petted

In all of the above situations, the dog responded to the handler's action as a cue for the behavior, without the handler giving a verbal cue.

Your dog already responds to environmental cues.
The doorbell rings and he barks. You enter the house after a long day at work and your dog goes nuts with excitement. You pick up your car keys and the dog runs to the door.

Training is all about action and consequence.
Repeated patterns turn into automatic reflexive responses. It is important to remember this, as many of the behaviors we hate and wish we could change, started in just this way. You quite probably taught your dog to be an idiot when you walk in the front door, to jump on you for attention or to beg at the table. A reaction was paired with a behavior. He jumped up and you touched him. He looked sweet and you fed him. He was happy to see you and you smiled and greeted him. It often takes no more than three or four repetitions before the dog comes to expect and will react to a sequence of events.

What gets rewarded, gets repeated. It is incredibly simple to teach a dog to respond to an environmental cue. You must simply be predictable and consistent. Hold the dog's dish until he sits at every meal time. The instant he sits, set the dish on the floor. He will sit sooner and faster each meal time once he realizes what he must do to get what he wants. You are using the "Premack Principle" - the scientific term for "if you eat your vegetables, you can have dessert!"

Use the Premack Principle in normal living situations with your dog:

What does the dog want? ---------- attention
What to YOU want from the dog? ------------ sit instead of jump up
The dog gets what it wants, when you get what YOU want. ------------ dog sits, you pet him

You both win!

If the dog should fail to offer the desired behavior, simply withhold what the dog wants, no corrections necessary. Absence of reward is surprisingly all that is needed. Be black and white. Be consistent in your expectation and response. Insist on the desired response EVERY time. Consistency is the key to training! Be aware of what is reinforcing to your dog. Some behaviors are "self-reinforcing" like jumping in the air, or barking, or running madly through the house. What you have to offer in the way of reward must be MORE reinforcing than what the dog is getting out of the behavior.

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Question of the week #7 - 2-2001

How would you respond to the statement:
"Training takes the dog out of the dog. Dogs should be allowed to be dogs."?

Lisa's answer: In our classes you will learn to think like a dog. That will enable you to create a living environment that actually allows him to be more comfortable being a dog in a human environment. We will not teach him to be an obedient robot. We will teach YOU how to effectively communicate with him so he can become the best dog he can be.

Teri's answer: The mother-in-law does not have to live with this dog. I think I would ask her if she enjoyed being pulled everywhere by her puppy and if she will enjoy it more when the pup is an adult and 10 or more pounds heavier. I would also ask about other behaviors which an ill-mannered pup is sure to have....such as jumping up on her and her friends, chewing up things in her home and yard, not coming when called, it's behavior with her children and other animals, wild barking and behavior when someone comes to the door, etc.. Might also mention how pleasant it would be to have a dog that would walk at her side without pulling her arm out of the socket, stand nicely for it's veterinary exams and not cause her embarrassment, sit quietly when her friends comeover and listen to her and respond positively when spoken to.

Going to school and following rules doesn't make a child any less of a child and the same is true for one's dogs. In fact, in both cases, they are a heck of alot more pleasant to be around. Might be a nice gesture to allow her to check out one of the videos on puppy training. Then both she and her husband could see what a well-mannered pup was like to have around the house.

Cathy's answer: My response to the owners who fear that dog training will take the dog out of the dog would be to set your minds at ease. Quite the opposite is going to happen. Once you get yourself and your dog into classes, start working on some simple commands & house manners, and taking back control of your daily lives, the dog will start acting like a dog, instead of a crazed tazmainian devil.

I would give them the talk that was given to me not so long ago by some fellow Ruffians about leadership. Dogs need and will follow a leader. If the owner isn't it, then they have to be. I believe that is what is happening here. With the lack of leadership and guidance, the dog is running rampant and the entire household is in chaos. No one is having any fun. I think that a HS Class and Prep Class would change these people's lives in ways they can only imagine at this point. I also think that the husband and his mother should attend the Attitude class with this woman ASAP. Good luck Kim!

Excellent Answers, AGAIN, you have all done a great job!! *high fives*

My response: Right now BOTH of you are frustrated and unhappy. Children and dogs need boundaries to feel safe and secure When children don't know the rules, they act out and throw tantrums trying to find their limits. How would your mother-in-law feel if her grandkids acted like this? This pup is doing the same thing. When the two of you are communicating and the dog is able to please you, both of you will be happier.

Never hesitate to Invite people like this to observe a puppy class, see people smiling and tails wagging. Her mother is probably envisioning doggy boot camp and choke chains and cowering dogs with military commands.

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Question of the week #8 - 3-2001

What to do about the "Leaping Loonie Labrador"?

Teri's answer: Oh, yes...know this type of dog well. =) A Gentle Leader will offer the owner much more control over her dog. For one thing it seems to help bring the dog down to a level of behavior where it can at least hear the owner. Encourage them to practice at home with their dog wearing the GL so that both dog and handler are comfortable with it by the time class rolls around. When coming through the door, the Gentle Leader enables the owner to turn the dog back into her more easily. I would also give the individual some one-on-one with teaching the Watch ME. If she is able to keep the dog's attention focused on her with the aid of a "to die for treat" then she will do alot to help maintain control. Lots of praise and treats for sitting quietly while people and doggies pass by.

For the actual meet and greet the good ole foot over the leash to prevent the dog from leaping up works quite well. Good thing to practice at home so one can easily get a foot on the leash without getting tangled.

The best motto is to be prepared....think a head to how your dog will react and cut them off at the pass so to speak. Have treats handy to positively reinforce a sit or watch me. And be ready to put a foot on that leash if it is difficult to keep the dog on the ground.

Cathy's answer: There are several things that these owners can do to remedy this behavior, but it's gonna take some time. Part of the problem is that this is an adolescent, not a puppy. (A good reason to start training pretty early.) I would instruct the people to work on getting the dog to settle in a sit stay with treats and lots of praise and gradually work to other people approaching the dog by the owner in a sit. If the dog breaks, the approaching person stops, no praise, no contact until the dog is sitting. The approaching person could even turn his back on the dog until he is sitting again. Standing on the leash may be necessary. I would work the dog alot on this with short work sessions and always ending on whatever level of success that can be achieved. A good exercise also is to get a friend or a neighborhood kid to ring the doorbell 5 or 6 times (like he is a visitor) every half hour for a couple of hours. This will help desensitise the excitement this dog feels when "there is somebody new here to see me. I'd better get jazzed!". If the owners would invest some quality time--at least a good couple of weeks or so--on remedying this behavior, the behavior of this dog would knock thier socks off. I know alot of adolescent labs end up in the shelters, and this behavior is undoubtedly one of the big reasons.

AGAIN, you have all done a great job!! *high fives*

My response: We must start wherever this dog is able to succeed.
Click/treat at each success. You are looking for self control.
Yes, Gentle Leader, foot on leash, set him up to succeed.

Increase to the next level of difficulty only when the dog is successful at the last.

Sit-stay. no distractions, just feed, build time.
Sit-stay while the owner moves hand above dog's head/toward the dog's head/touches dog's head.
Sit-stay while the owner bends at the waist and says "hi!" reaches/touches dog's head.
Sit-stay while the owner makes "woogie woogie" noises, says "hi" reaches/touches dog's head.
Sit-stay while the owner walks up to the dog slowly.
Sit-stay while the owner walks up and bends at the waist.
Sit-stay while the owner walks up and says "hi!"
Sit-stay while the owner walks up bends at the waist, says "hi!" makes woogie woogie noises AND touches the dog.
Sit-stay while the owner rings the doorbell prior to each successive level.

Repeat the above stages adding: skipping, hopping, jumping, squeaky toys, touching the dog in more invasive/exciting ways.

ALL of the above graduated stages with someone the dog knows well.
All of the above graduated stages with someone the dog knows less well.
All of the above graduated stages with total strangers / kids / really exciting people.

At each progression, the consequence for "losing control" is the person turns his/her back on the dog and waits. This could be in mid-step toward the dog, in mid-pet, in mid-sentence.

Take it on the road. Just because he can do it in the living room, doesn't mean he can do it at the park.

To curb frantic licking/mouthing: hold the dog's focus on a treat in your left hand as you stroke with the right.
Then withhold the food (keeping the dog's focus) while you stroke then feed, stroke then feed, etc.
Next food is behind your back, stroke, food comes out, stroke, food comes out.

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Question of the week #9 - 3-2001

The Springer Who Won't Come

I am having trouble w/ him consistently responding to COME. (funny actually.. I say COME and the cat comes a running... as he knows that command!) I am having to walk up to the dog to release him. I've tried "OK", "HERE", "LETS GO"... but he stays sitting like a statue! Someone told me you never have a dog COME from a STAY. You are instead suppose to go up to them to release them. But it's ok to COME from a WAIT?! Maybe this is what he was taught??! ?

Lisa's answer: I am a bit confused by the way the question is written...she calls the dog and it freezes? A dog would freeze in this situation out of fear. Freezing is a calming signal. It sounds like they haven't had the dog since it was a puppy. Sounds like it may have been severly corrected for stuff? There are many ways to work on the come. First, how does she say "come" Forceful, staring and looming? If so, she can try turning sideways, slapping her hand on her leg and walking away while she is saying "come". Make it a game and take advantage of prey/chase drive. Be lighthearted. She NEEDS to go back to basics. Two people with treats 15 feet apart calling and treating. Maybe use a toy. I LOVE Jean Donaldson's trick...get the dog revved up with a toy he gets madly excited about. Put the dog in a sit stay and walk away. Stand with your legs spread and call the dog and when he gets to you toss the toy through your legs so he has to run through and keep chasing the toy to get it. The only thing I know for sure from the email is she is asking the dog to do too much too soon. She needs to go back to basics. A headstart class.

Teri's answer: If the incentive is great enough, this young man will come from a sit/stay, sit/wait or even paws nailed to the ground. =) I don't really think that the stay or wait command is necessarily such a big deal. If you intend to call your dog, then a wait is supposed to be best. But this trainer (ie me) sometimes gets confused and gives the wrong command ie stay. And low and behold my dog will come anyway.....she knows I'm old and on the way to senility but is very forgiving. I said "come" she knows what that means and she comes. So what i would do with the reluctant springer is to put him on a long line. Practice a few sits and downs with marvelous treats so he knows you have them. Then put him on a sit/wait and walk a few feet away. Call him with a happy voice and clap your hands and pat your legs and encourage him to come. If he continues to sit, walk backwards with the treat right in front of his nose as he reaches for it step back with a come and lay on the praise. A gentle tug on the long line will also give him the encouragement he needs to move forward.

I would play games with him. Throw a favorite toy or ball and call come when he picks it up. Play the Get it/come game. Dogs love that one. Have someone hold him in another room as he hears you fix his dinner....call come really happy for chow. Play hide and seek using a come command when you are hid. have a treat ready when he finds you.

Cathy's answer: This is a situation where taking a step (or 3 or 8) back to the beginning would be in order. I also would totally separate the relearning of "stay" and "come" so as not to mess up either command. That may be why this dog won't budge from a stay when he gets called. When starting out in a sit-stay or down-stay I would start like the dog has no idea what that word means and do the pivoting in front and progressing to increased distances. When releasing him I would say "okay", and walk him out of the stay so he knows that the stay is over. He should be on a leash, and make sure he is walked out of the stay. I would do this over and over until he understands what stay means and what the release word means. With retraining come, I would use a long line and another person to hold the dog---and do NOT put him in a sit-stay. I would do this exercise many times over several weeks until he knows what come means. I would train these two exercises at different times so the dog is not confused. No one has ever told me not to call my dog from a sit-stay or down-stay. I have released them from those commands by returning to them AND by calling them to come to me. I hope that's not wrong. The command "wait" can mean whatever you want it to mean. I have been told that many people use it instead of a stay command; many people use it as a short stay; and many people use it to instruct thier dogs to hang tight for a second until I tell you to do something else---like wait to go through the door or a gait or wait to get into the car. It is up to you as to how you want to incorporate that into your training.

Kim's answer: Does this dog know what come means? Is come a "bad word" to him? In his previous home did come mean "come her so I can punish you, give you meds, trim your nails, etc."? Why not start with the dog in a sit right in front of you and have a handful of very "high priced" treats. Then start giving the command and popping a treat: "Come", treat; "come", treat; "come", treat. Kinda like the "click-treat" routine. Then next take a step back, have the treat on the dogs nose and say come and lure him to you. Repete several times. Then take two steps back, "come", lure, treat and so on. Keep building the distance so that eventually when the dog hears "Come" that means "Come to me regardless of what you are doing". Keep a smile on your face and cheerlead! Make come a very good word and make yourself a very good reward. NEVER use come to do some thing "bad" (nail trim, medications, grooming-unless he likes it). With a newly adopted dog he may be thinking "Come? Why should I come to you? Whats in if for me?"

GREAT - you all echoed exactly my take on it -and the woman wrote back that he is now coming with gusto. *high fives* She is in Pennsylvania, or she'd be enrolled in classes! *S*

My response: "Stay" meaning "don't move til I come release you" and "wait" meaning "wait for the next command" is pretty common. The words you use are only important in so far as what your dog thinks they mean. As far as "wait" vs "stay" - I've done it both ways over the years and I suspect it has far more importance to do make this distinction for compulsive trainers who "proof" exercises with harsh corrections (as I suspect has happened with this particular dog).

It sounds like he's not "not coming" but just "staying really well." He has obviously been proofed (probably with distractions and plenty of correction) for anticipation or for moving from a stay -and he's doing a rock-solid stay for fear of who knows what. I would break the exercise down into tiny bits and build his confidence that it's ok to come running, nothing bad will happen.

Yes! Separate the two exercises so he's not confused and so as not to "lose the stay" in the process of teaching the come. Teach him the "come and get it" to make the recall exciting and fun. Do restraint recalls to increase drive. Use toys, food, games, lots of encouraging body language and run aways. Yes, Lisa, the throw through the legs is a great game (luckily this is a Springer and you don't have to have long Lisa legs!)

When you are ready to begin making the recall look more formal, do it in baby steps. Avoid triggering the emotional response to the "old picture" of sit-stay. Leave him standing casually without a stay/wait command. Move only a couple of steps away and then in an excited voice call "come!" and run away from him. Instantly when he gets to you reward with praise/food/big game with an exciting toy for responding.

When he will respond eagerly every time to the "come" start adding a casual sit command (no command to "stay" or "wait") just have someone lightly hold his collar if needed and walk away a few steps and then call and run away. Increase the distance a few steps at a time. Last, I'd do the above progression with the "formal picture" of sit with a gentle command to stay from heel position. The goal is to build to the point where there is no hesitation and he responds with confidence at a dead run on the command to come.

We are over-riding a well-practiced and proofed command so we must be patient and make the recall loads of fun. The above might progress over several days or a couple of weeks until you can tell him to "sit-wait" and walk away a certain distance, turn face and call him to a prompt sit in front. If the goal is a ring-ready performance, you will also need to desensitize the serious calm of a nervous ring handler or this could come back to haunt you!

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I loved this quote from Roger Abrantes (ethologist):
"Treat all dogs and owners as individuals. Respect their wishes and needs independently
of your personal opinion, likes and dislikes. Remember that the vast majority of dog
owners want a loving, co-operative, well-mannered dog, as a companion,
a member of the family, and not an object to win shows and competitions.
Update your knowledge and skills constantly. Be open-minded and never discard
an idea without a thorough investigation. Be critical and never accept an idea without
subjecting it to careful analysis. Enjoy yourself while you're doing what you're doing."
-Roger Abrantes

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HOW DO I BECOME A NADOI / APDT MEMBER?
I am tickled to say I've been asked this question three times in the past couple weeks!!

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OK you know how I am about great quotes ...
THIS one is courtesy of one of our own Ruffians:

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Question of the week #12 - 4-2001

Food Obsessed Dog:

My fiance and I are working with our dog Belle in your headstart class. I also have an 11 year old Border Collie/Lab mix named Kitty. I have been trying to apply the training to her. In the past she has worked well, but I am having a problem with her now. She is on a steroid (prednisone?) for severe stiffness. The steriod does wonders, as well as Belle's company, but it makes her hungry all the time. This is affecting training. She becomes so distracted by the treats that the training quickly breaks down. She becomes obsessed with the food. Can you offer any tips to this type of training situation?

What do you recommend in a situation like this?

Cathy's answer: Regarding the food obsessed hungry girl BC/Lab mix, there are several things that I can think of to do in a situation like this. The first thing is train her when she has had a bit to eat so she isn't ravenous. Something else that may help is to lower the level of the treats. If you are using chicken for treats in training, take it down to a level so the dog can think---like apples, carrots, cherrios, or popcorn for example. Put the treats in your pocket, and out of your hand. This could help her settle down enough to think and when she does the right thing, treats magically appear. A really helpful exercise that we learned in CTH was food delay. That may be a bit more advanced than this dog is ready for, but it is worth a try. Instead if just food treats, does she ever respond to a toy or fun playtime with the trainer or Belle? It was recently suggested to me to use playtime with one of my other dogs as a reward because it is such a high value thing to do. I also think getting her into a clicker class will really do wonders. It establishes clearly what the dog is being rewarded for and allows the trainer to put the food away in a pocket

Teri's answer: She might try a favorite toy instead of food as the motivator. Or use food delay....where the food is not on her person but nearby out of dog's reach. When the dog gives the asked for behavior..click and go get the treat. I'ld try alot of vocal praise and pets too. My dogs like being told they're the best things since sliced bread. They really get pleased with themselves...of course.....it doesn't take much to make an Entlebucher think it's really "tough stuff" *giggle* .

Kim's answer:Yup, pred will do that to you!

The owner states that the dog has worked well in the past. Is it safe to assume that the dog already knows sit, down, stay?? If so, dont give treats all the way thru. Work the dog thru some excercises then end with an "Okay! Lets go get a cookie!" and go get the treat. Take the food away, random reward. Had a Chow in my Jan. class that was doing awesome then on week four the owners said he had become so food focused that he was not listening. I told the owners, there in class, to put the food away, show Sunny they had no treats, then ask him to perform again. He hit the mark perfectly! I told the owners not to have food out 100% of the time when he is doing excercises he knows. Random reward him.

Another thought, change the reward. Border Collie/Lab? How about a tennis ball or squeekie toy as a brief reward? Though number three, wait until the Belle is in clicker class, then work with the clicker with Kitty. That way the click is the reward more so than the treat?

EXCELLENT!

Ya know, I always write up my answer first, and then wait for yours to come in. When I read Kim's first line, I thought, WOW we are in sync. (And not that boy toy band either!)

My response: Ah predisone does tend to do that. Our old girl Rio was on it and she was positively famished when she was. (Never a counter thief unless she was on the meds.)

I would highly recommend canine massage for her stiffness - Get In Touch class? and suggested that they might talk to their vet about glucosamine chondroitin supplements - maybe using a combination would allow a decrease in the dosage of prednisone and her frantic hunger? Other recommendations: Train AFTER dinner on a full stomach. Use very low value treats (sliced raw carrot, frozen green beans, cubes of bread, her regular kibble? You don't need the high value stuff that makes her go overboard.) My primary recommendation is to start her using the clicker. I think it will be just what they need for her. There is very little luring in clicker training, you mark the behavior you like with a click and the food comes after. The dog must stay focused and THINK to get the food, not just follow it. Sometimes following lure makes them a bit frantic when they are food obsessed, with clicker training there is no just-out-of-reach food getting away.

I'd also do some "doggie zen" leave-its. (Food in the palm of the hand within reach, dog reaches, hand closes.) Teach her to contain her grabbiness around the food and make it clear to her that she does get it BUT she has to work for it and mugging the owner is not the way to get it.

Question of the week #13:
Can you, should you, when might you or why wouldn't you
use the Gentle Leader and a Prong simultaneously?

Teri: In most instances it probably would not be necessary to use both a gentle leader and a pronged collar. But for a really big, strong dog it just might be necessary, especially for a small woman. Some dogs will keep right on pulling in a pronged collar so the gentle leader is needed to bring them back around to target position but a gentle leader alone may not be enough for control. If they set their necks and bull doze ahead, you've lost them. That sort of thing happens with some short-necked, stubborn horses or shetland ponies. Many a time, I have seen a child being dragged along by a shetland. If you haven't the strength to turn the head, that's it. With dogs in a pronged collar, they should be able to be held back enough so that the gentle leader can then be used to turn the head and keep control.

Cathy: Although I have experience in using both the prong collar and a GL, no one I've talked to has ever addressed the issue of possibly using both at the same time. I think I am pretty good with the use of both of them and while both collars have their place in training, I can't imagine trying to use them both together. Lets face it. Most of the people we encounter--- especially in the beginning classes where getting control and establishing boundaries for their dogs are some of the main things they want to do --- generally speaking, these are lay people, not dog people, and it is all they can do to barely master the philosophy and physical dynamics of one of these collars plus train their dogs. I myself have sent people with a GL one week to try and a prong collar the next, but I wouldn't encourage anyone to use them both together as they work totally different from each other. I really pity the poor animal that has this done to him.

Lisa's answer: Use them both with dogs who are strong and potentially volatile. A Fila comes to mind. That is the ONLY situation to use them both. Using them both in any other situation takes the emphasis off of relationship and puts it on the hardware.

Kim's answer: My first response is yeah, I would imagine you could use both collars at the same time, but not sure the reason why you would. Let me think about it for a bit. My first blush is, using both would really make the statement, equipment wise, that Mom is the boss!

Good reasoning all the way around!

My response: I think for the vast majority of handlers and dogs, using both would be overkill and unnecessary. I have used it several times for people who were using a prong and feel they need it for control, as a reeally powerful dog could still drag them on a GL, but they needed the GL for the calming influence and ability to turn the dog's head/eyes away in tight situations. We used it that way on Rambo the 140lb fila. For Rambo, it gave her double the control should he do something stupid - a safety net as it were should one or the other give way. You could use the GL and buckle collar this way if you were worried about equipment failure. I have a GSD in the Shy Dog class (who is really a bossy/reactive dog more than a shy dog) - the owner prefers her prong for walks as the dog is very responsive on it and she has far better results training with it than on the GL. However in dog-to-dog close up situations, she needs to be able to turn the dog's head away without triggering a pain response. With a karabeener on the handle of the leash, a short lead can be attached to both collars and handled very lightly with two hands like a roping rein on a horse. I wouldn't recommend it for most dogs or most handlers, but it is a possibility for your toolbox!

 

 

I loved this quote from Roger Abrantes (ethologist):
"Treat all dogs and owners as individuals. Respect their wishes and needs independently
of your personal opinion, likes and dislikes. Remember that the vast majority of dog
owners want a loving, co-operative, well-mannered dog, as a companion,
a member of the family, and not an object to win shows and competitions.
Update your knowledge and skills constantly. Be open-minded and never discard
an idea without a thorough investigation. Be critical and never accept an idea without
subjecting it to careful analysis. Enjoy yourself while you're doing what you're doing."
-Roger Abrantes

"Any time an animal repeats a behavior, that behavior and the associated sequence
get reinforced whether or not the outcome is desirable."

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